The cigars, the mojitos, the cars, the old buildings. A place forgotten by decades. It’s all here.
Beyond it all, if you wander the streets far enough, you get a sense of anxiety about the place. Not like the fear of mugging or kidnapping, but of a government that is everywhere, but not present. Or a set of rules no one really tells you about. The place is gorgeous and aging, but all of that is right on the precipice of being ruined for the promise of somethign that might be better.